關於 four seasons paris restaurant ，我們在網路上蒐集到這些相關的討論、資訊與評價

[News / #餐飲新聞] Maxime Frederic 主廚在巴黎白馬酒店開新餐廳！/ Maxime Frédéric opens his own restaurant “Limbar” at Cheval Blanc Paris

在大家如火如荼地慶祝中秋節的時刻，法國和巴黎的餐飲界也如火如荼地邁向復甦之路，不僅大型活動開始恢復舉行，如日前剛剛順利閉幕的巴黎美食節 Taste Of Paris Official、即將開跑的里昂美食節 Sirha（9/23-9/27）、巴黎巧克力大展 Salon du Chocolat（10/28-11/1）等，也有新餐廳開幕。

之前曾與大家介紹過和大型百貨公司 Samaritaine 一起開幕的巴黎白馬酒店（Cheval Blanc Paris），在 9 月 7 日正式開幕後，也開始宣傳酒店內的幾間餐廳。其中最引人注目的，便是由前巴黎喬治五世四季酒店（Four Seasons Hotel George V Paris）的甜點主廚 Maxime Frédéric 領軍的「Limbar」。和全法唯一一個獲得米其林二星的甜點餐廳 Sarkara 相同，Limbar 也是極少數由甜點主廚坐鎮的餐廳之一。

Limbar 的概念是一家「全天候」從早上 7 點到午夜皆不停歇的餐廳，白日的餐點（早餐、午餐、下午茶）以「麵包」和「鄉土甜點」為中心。Maxime 主廚不再侷限於「甜點主廚」的角色，而是真正的「主廚」，以「cuisine boulangère」（#麵包師傅的料理），他設計跨越甜鹹邊界的餐點。以午餐為例，前菜以蔬菜和穀物為中心，例如包含了布格麥（Boulghour）、胡蘿蔔與柑橘醬汁的「穀物與夏季時蔬」（Céréale et légumes d’été）以及使用藜麥和蔬菜汁製作的「填餡番茄」（Tomate farcie）等，主菜則有自 19 世紀即風靡巴黎的「法式酥盒」（Vol-au-vent）、「玉米舒芙蕾塔」（Tarte soufflée au « maïs grand roux»）、「新橋可頌」（Croissant du Pont-Neuf）等。新橋（Pont-Neuf）是巴黎白馬酒店實際的所在地，而「新橋可頌」則脫胎自以長棍麵包對切、塗上奶油，夾入白火腿（jambon blanc）製作的「巴黎風三明治」（Sandwich Parisien / Jambon-Beurre）。

午餐的甜點被稱為「desserts boulangers」（#麵包師傅的甜點），同樣充滿簡樸的鄉村氣息，例如焙烤無花果與冰凍蛋白霜、以酥皮包裹烤製的西洋梨（Doullion à la poire）與搭配奶油與蜂蜜的麵包片等。早餐有豐富的麵包與維也納麵包（viennoiserie）選擇、下午茶時間則有甜鹹小點與隨時變換的法國各地鄉土甜點。到了晚間，Limbar 則搖身一變，成為魅力獨具的雞尾酒吧，由去年出版《The Cocktail Book》大獲好評的 Florian Thireau 擔任首席調酒師（Chef Barman）總管，提供各種迷人的特調雞尾酒，也有鹹食小點可搭配。

在Limbar，Maxime 延續他一直以來重視食材產區與小農的堅持，從法國不同區域嚴選磨坊與酪農合作，發揮不同麵粉與乳製品的特色，並在菜單上一一標註生產者。Limbar 集合他過去所學與童年回憶，將美好的田野牧歌帶至巴黎中心。一方面可視為近年「返璞歸真」風潮的延續，另一方面，職人的精巧與優雅，也昇華了樸實的鄉間美食，進而鎔鑄新的巴黎風格。

巴黎白馬酒店共有四家餐廳、酒吧，除了 Limbar 外，尚有由三星主廚 Arnaud Donckele 主理的精緻餐飲餐廳 Plentitude、提供精緻義大利菜的 Langosteria 及較為輕鬆的餐酒館Le Tout-Paris。

🔖 延伸閱讀：

Limbar 餐廳網站：https://www.limbar.fr/

巴黎白馬酒店新開幕：https://tinyurl.com/ncphya9s

赤子之心打造完美極限——專訪 Maxime Frédéric 主廚：https://tinyurl.com/rf989872

#yingspastryguide #yingc #paris #chevalblancparis #maximefrédédic #Limbar

[Books / 書訊] Yann Brys 與 François Perret 主廚出版新書、 Fou de Pâtisserie 食譜書將出中文版 / Chef Yann Brys and François Perret publish their first books, Fou de Pâtisserie book launch traditional Chinese version soon (for English, please click “see more”)

我想法國主廚們跟書商完全沒有要讓消費者喘口氣的意思，11 月好書連發，最近輪到陀飛輪（tourbillon）創始人、擁有法國最佳工藝職人（MOF）頭銜的 Yann Brys 主廚和巴黎麗池酒店 Ritz Paris 的主廚 François Perret 出新書；甜點雜誌 Fou de Pâtisserie 去年出版的同名食譜書也確認即將推出中文版。

Yann Brys 主廚過去的資歷顯赫，他師承 MOF Philippe Urraca、在 FAUCHON 時在有「甜點小王子」之稱的主廚 Sébastien Gaudard Pâtissier 底下工作，接著經歷巴黎數個豪華酒店，包括宮殿級酒店（palace）的 Hotel Le Bristol Paris，然後前往 DALLOYAU。他在 2009 年發展了現在聞名世界的「陀飛輪」擠花手法，2011 年通過一系列的嚴格比賽與鑑定、獲得法國最佳工藝職人的頭銜，並在同年被任命為 Dalloyau 的創意總監。Yann Brys 主廚在這本即將在 11/27 上市的書中分享了以陀飛輪手法裝飾的多種蛋糕、還有其他或經典或創新的精彩作品。

現任 Ritz 酒店甜點主廚的 François Perret 的經歷也不遑多讓，他幾乎在巴黎所有宮殿級酒店都工作過，一開始在 Le Meurice、接著在 Four Seasons Hotel George V Paris，然後在 Hotel Lancaster Paris 擔任甜點主廚。2010 年他協助巴黎香格里拉飯店 Shangri-La Hotel, Paris 開幕，並很快幫後者的 L’Abeille 餐廳取得米其林二星。接著他加入 Ritz，這個歷經四年整修的巴黎傳奇宮殿級酒店在他與主廚 Nicolas Sale Officiel 的協力合作下，一年之後便分別為酒店內的兩個餐廳取得米其林二星（La Table d'Espadon）與一星（Les Jardins d'Espadon），他和 Nicolas Sale 也分別奪下 2017 年由《Le Chef》雜誌頒發的年度甜點主廚與年度主廚獎項。上月 François Perret 主廚再獲肯定，被 Les Grandes Tables du Monde 協會選為「meilluer pâtissier de restaurant du monde」（「全球最佳餐廳甜點主廚」）。如同書名「Instants sucrés au Ritz Paris」指明的，本書是以「Rtiz 的甜點時光」規劃，從早餐、午餐、下午茶、晚餐等都有相應的作品。François 主廚的的知名創作如瑪德蓮蛋糕、蜂蜜等都收錄其中。另外有一個好消息要跟台灣讀者分享，本書的繁體中文版已經被 大境文化&出版菊文化(生活美食地圖) 簽下，大家再稍等一下就能看到囉！

最後則是甜點雜誌 Fou de Pâtisserie 去年十月出版的同名食譜書，近日剛剛發表了德文版，同時也宣布簡體和繁體中文版即將推出。這是一本想要認識法式甜點經典、同時一覽法國主廚們各種精彩重新詮釋版本的讀者們必定要收藏的作品。書中精選了 17 種最經典的法式甜點，如 Baba 巴巴、Opéra 歌劇院蛋糕、Saint-Honoré 聖多諾黑泡芙、Tarte au citron 檸檬塔等，每個主題前先解釋該甜點的起源、並以詳細的步驟圖介紹一個最具代表性的作品，接著介紹該甜點的重要組成元素、然後呈現四五個不同的變化版本（全部由知名主廚提供），最後提供一個能夠使用市售商品與簡便方法，在家快速重現經典的食譜。能夠一次飽覽當代最知名的40 位甜點主廚們的作品、領略法式甜點不斷推陳出新的活力，大概也只有 Fou de Pâtisserie 可以辦到。

以下就請大家點開照片、也開始存錢準備囉😆👇🏻

🔖 延伸閱讀：

甜點食譜書推薦與介紹：#yingsbookreviews

法式甜點經典重生、歷久彌新的秘訣——「重新詮釋」：https://tinyurl.com/y5xenfqz

如何鑑賞 François Perret 主廚的瑪德蓮蛋糕？https://tinyurl.com/y54dacbu

巴黎麗池酒店下午茶體驗：https://tinyurl.com/v4hqj5g

深度專訪 Fou de Pâtisserie 創辦人與總編輯 Julie Mathieu：https://tinyurl.com/vss89b3

*****
This November is marked by beautiful pastry recipe books. If you still remember that we’ve talked about the books of the chef Yann Couvreur, Angelo Musa, and Michelin Guide, now there’re some more! The MOF chef Yann Brys and François Perret, head pastry chef of Ritz Paris are publishing their books this week as well. Moreover, Fou de Pâtisserie has just announced that their great recipe book is going to have its traditional and simplified Chinese versions soon.

Even if you don’t know the chef Yann Brys, you must recognise his world-renowned gesture “tourbillon” still, a technique to pipe cream on a turntable to create a whirl effect. He learnt a wide range of skills from another MOF chef Philippe Urraca, and then worked with Sébastien Gaudard, the “petit prince de la pâtisserie” when he was at Fauchon. He then went through several luxury hotels such as Concorde Lafayette (current Hyatt Regency Paris Étoile) and Hotel Bristol Paris. After that he joined Dalloyau and was named the Creative Director in 2011. He passed through a series of competitions and got his MOF title the same year. In this book “Tourbillon”, the chef shares with us lots of beautiful cakes employing the technique and his other creations as well as the know-how as a Meilleur Ouvrier de France.

Having worked at most of the Parisian palace hotels, François Perret, current chef pâtissier of Ritz Paris also boasts impressive experiences at Le Meurice, George V before he was appointed as the head pastry chef at Hotel Lancaster Paris. He joined Shangri-La Paris in 2010, assisting its opening and contributing to the Michelin two stars gained in two years for L’Abeille, the fine-dining restaurant at the hotel. He then joined Ritz and has been collaborating with the chef Nicolas Sale ever since. The legendary hotel situated on Place Vendôme reopened in 2016 after 4 years of renovation, but the duo has gained the hotel 3 Michelin stars in total in just a year - La Table d’Espadon got two stars and Les Jardin d’Espadon got 1 star in 2017. The both were further awarded as “Pastry chef of the year” and “Chef of the year” by the magazine “Le Chef” in the same year. François was elected as “Best restaurant pastry chef of the world 2019” last month by Grandes Tables du Monde. The book “Instant sucrés au Ritz Paris” presents those sweet moments offered by the hotel, starting from breakfast, wonderful pastries and desserts served in lunch time, tea time, and on dinner tables are all included. The chef’s signature desserts like the entremets Madeleine, Miel, Île flottante are also covered. Good news is that both the English and traditional Chinese version of the book are on their way. English and Chinese-speaking readers will only need to be patient for little while to learn more about the sweet universe of the chef.

Last but not least, the Fou de Pâtisserie book published last October is now having its German version. The traditional and simplified Chinese versions will be available soon, too. Collaborating with 40 great French pastry chefs, this book offers pastry passionates a wonderful opportunity to learn about those great French classics as well as their creative variations. 17 classic like baba au rhum, Opera, Saint-Honoré cakes, etc are presented. Their origins and legends are well explained, followed by a signature recipe illustrated step-by-step and presented by one famous chef, followed by four to five variations with real recipes provided by influential chefs. Then finally an express version using existing products sold in shops or supermarkets is featured. This is a fantastic book to glance through some of the best creations of our time and to learn the spirit of creation.

Click on the following photos to have a closer look!

🔖 You might also be interested:

More book reviews: #yingsbookreviews

Revisiting classics, the fountain-of-youth secret of French pastries: https://tinyurl.com/y5xenfqz

How to appreciate French pastries (with an example of the “Madeleine” of the chef François Perret): https://tinyurl.com/y54dacbu

Tea time at Ritz Paris: https://tinyurl.com/v4hqj5g

Interview with Julie Mathieu, founder and editor in chief of Fou de Pâtisserie: https://tinyurl.com/vss89b3

#yingc #françoisperret #yannbrys #foudepâtisserie

[Paris pastry / 巴黎甜點] Nicolas Paciello 主廚（Fouquet’s）的聖誕節蛋糕創作 / Yule log 2019 of Nicolas Paciello for Fouquet’s (for English, please click “see more”)

前兩天應邀參加 Hôtel Barrière Le Fouquet's Paris 的下午茶體驗，今年九月剛剛離開 Hotel Prince de Galles 加入 Fouquet’s 的甜點主廚 Nicolas Paciello 向我們介紹他過去兩個月幾乎沒日沒夜辛勤工作的成果—— Retaurant Le Joy 的全新下午茶套餐以及今年的聖誕節蛋糕。

1899 年由 Louis Fouquet 創立的 Restaurant Fouquet's Paris 位於巴黎香榭麗謝與喬治五世大道交口，原本是一個酒館、餐廳。採用創始人 Fouquet 的家族姓氏，後面再加上「’s」的英美式用法，賦予它不少時髦意味。今年適逢 120 周年慶的 Fouquet’s 在巴黎是非常知名且歷史悠久的餐廳，每年被譽為「法國奧斯卡」的凱薩獎頒獎典禮餐會都是在這裡舉行，1990 年，Fouquet’s 餐廳也被列為法國歷史遺跡。1998 年，法國賭場與酒店集團 Barrier 買下 Fouquet’s 餐廳與旁邊六棟建築物、創立 Hôtel Barrier Le Fouquet’s Paris，從此 Fouquet’s 變成為一個包含豪華旅館與餐廳、酒吧的品牌，能和周遭林立的豪華酒店如 Four Seasons Hotel George V、Prince de Galles 等比肩。今年三月，位於路口的 Fouquet’s 餐廳因為黃背心運動被大肆破壞，不得不關門整修，直到七月十四日法國國慶日才重新開幕。旅館內的其他餐廳、酒吧如 Le Joy、Le Marta Paris 等也一併經過重新整修。

從隔壁 Prince de Galles 飯店轉職過來的甜點主廚 Nicolas Paciello 為 Fouquet’s 的 Le Joy 餐廳設計了「two courses」的下午茶套餐（48€ /人，含一杯熱飲，另有含一杯香檳的版本€58 / 人）：第一道是包含三明治等鹹點與 scones、cookies（美式餅乾果然很紅吧！）、法式小點心 petit fours 的三層架，第二道則是三樣主廚精選甜點的迷你版，包含開心果閃電泡芙、檸檬塔、巴黎・布列斯特泡芙。

當天 Nicolas Paciello 主廚並為我們介紹了他今年的力作——「La Bûche de Noël de Louis Bouquet」（Louis Fouquet 的聖誕節蛋糕）。他與歷史學家Marion Godfroy-Tayart de Borms 合作設計，參考了 120 年前的流行風格和 Louis Fouquet 本人的喜好，是一款外觀看來非常神秘的蛋糕。放在巧克力雕塑製成的展示高台上的蛋糕，是由濕潤的烘烤杏仁海綿蛋糕（biscuit moelleux à l’amande torréfiée）加上黑巧克力慕斯（mousse de chocolat intense）與糖漬香檸檬（confit de bergamote）組成，隱藏在一層薄薄的杏仁膏之下，鮮紅色的外觀呼應 Fouquet’s 的招牌遮雨檐。我之前也提過，法國現在也在流行減糖，許多甜點都早已顛覆以前法式甜點給人的甜膩印象。而這個蛋糕大概是我過去數年來在法國吃過「最不甜」的蛋糕，主廚 Nicolas 也是刻意如此設計，突出香檸檬的酸味、並用杏仁的香氣和圓潤去中和，讓人在豐盛的聖誕大餐後，仍然能毫無負擔地享用、成為完美的結尾。不過，如果是在平時下午茶品嚐，酸度卻有些過於強烈了。

接下來請大家點開照片一一欣賞主廚的作品，更多當天的影音請參考我的 Instagram 精選動態「Fouquet’s」：https://tinyurl.com/w7kvq2w

🔖 延伸閱讀：

2019 年巴黎聖誕節蛋糕精選：https://tinyurl.com/y6pq87rz

認識更多法國甜點主廚與意見領袖：https://tinyurl.com/y49mhpl3

你不可不知的法式甜點關鍵詞：https://tinyurl.com/y5c99dd8

*****

I got invited to Hôtel Barrière Le Fouquet’s Paris earlier this week for tasting their tea time at Restaurant Le Joy and the yule log creation. Nicolas Paciello, head pastry chef (former head pastry chef at Hôtel Prince de Galles) of the hotel who just arrived two months ago gave us a warm welcome.

Situated on the intersection of Avenue des Champs-Élyées and Avenue George V, the brasserie-restaurant Fouquet’s was founded by Louis Fouquet in 1899. Louis Fouquet named the restaurant after his family name but added the “’s” to give it a trendy style. Celebrating its 120 anniversaire this year, Fouquet’s is a legendary restaurant in Paris. It holds the gala dinner for Cézar Awards, the French equivalent of Academy awards, each year and was frequented by many celebrities. The main room of Fouquet’s was listed as an "Inventaire des Monuments Historiques” (French historical monument) in 1990. In 1998, Group Barrière, a French casino and luxury hotel group, bought the restaurant and further acquired 6 buildings around it to create Hôtel Barrière Le Fouquet Paris. Fouquet’s has since then become a brand that includes a luxury hotel, symbolic restaurants and bars. Fouquet’s was severely damaged during the Gillet Jaune movement this march and was thus closed for renovation for several months. It re-opened in July on the Bastille Day this year and the restaurants and bars in the hotel also underwent a make-over.

Fouquet’s new head pastry chef Nicolas Paciello created a new tea time menu for Restaurant Le Joy that is composed of two courses: served on a 3-tiered stand, a sweet and savoury selection including scones, cookies, finger sandwiches, and petit fours comes first, followed by 3 chef’s signature pastries in mini form: pistachio éclairs, lemon tart, and Paris-Brest.

The chef also presented us his Christmas cake creation in tribute to the founder of Fouquet's, “La Bûche de Noël de Louis Fouquet”. In collaboration with the historian Marion Godfroy-Tayart de Borms, this yule log pays great attention to the fashion back to 120 years ago as well as the preference of Louis Fouquet himself. This mysterious-looking cake sits on a high stand made of chocolate and is covered by a thin layer of almond paste, whose vivid color clearly refers to the brasserie’s distinctive red awnings on Charmps-Élysées. The cake itself is made of a moist roasted almond sponge cake, a dark chocolate mousse as well as a bergamot confit. Now that a “less-sugar” trend seems to sweep the French pastry industry, many pastries and desserts here in Paris are much less sweet and filling compared to before. With a rather strong acidity of the bergamot orange rounded by almonds biscuit and chocolate cream, the cake is probably the least sweet cake I’ve ever tasted in recent years. The chef Nicolas has made it on purpose so that it’s light enough to be enjoyed at the end of a Christmas feast. However, if you taste it during tea time in normal days, you might find yourself crave more sweetness.

Click on the photos and have a closer look to the divine pastries and wonderful work of the chef. More videos and experiences in live could be found in my featured stories “Fouquet’s” on Instagram: https://tinyurl.com/w7kvq2w

🔖 You might also be interested:

2019 Paris Christmas cakes: https://tinyurl.com/y6pq87rz

Getting to know more French pastry chefs and influencers: https://tinyurl.com/y49mhpl3

French pastry keywords that you have to know: https://tinyurl.com/y5c99dd8

#yingspastryguide #fouquets #nicolaspaciello #bûchedenoël2019 #buchedenoel2019 #yingc

Maxime 為 l’Orangerie 餐廳設計的甜點「 Kiwi infusé à l’huile d’olive, Thé matcha au gingembre 」（橄欖油漬奇異果、薑味抹茶）。由 l’Orangerie 的甜點副主廚 Sacha Vadier 示範製作上桌前的最後裝飾。

The "Kiwi infusé, Thé matcha au gingembre" dessert created by Maxime Frédéric for restaurant l'Orangerie at Four Seasons Hotel George V, Paris. Sacha Vadier, the sous-chef pâtissier responsable of the restaurant demonstrates how everything comes into place at the last stage.