關於 kyrgyzstan passport ，我們在網路上蒐集到這些相關的討論、資訊與評價

當別人聽到我們冬天要去塔吉克斯走帕米爾公路時，都覺得我們瘋了！😆 的確這五天的溫度最暖 -30℃、最冷-50℃ 😬 也難怪在首都青旅待了三晚都找不到人願意跟我們分包車🤣

網誌➡️ https://www.travelwithwinny.com/zh/帕米爾公路-pamir-highway-塔吉克/

帕米爾公路是全世界海拔第二高的公路（4655M）⛰️ 途中經過烏茲別克、阿富汗、塔吉斯坦與吉爾吉斯🚘 在非冬季，是世界各地單車手最愛挑戰的路線 🚲

例如塔吉斯坦與吉爾吉斯兩海關位置距離二十公里，在中途的無國界地帶還有民宿給騎車的人露宿呢！

也許冬季有些著名的小村落不通，不過每天開車經過白茫茫的一片也是種體驗😌 再次證明旅遊是不分季節的！

這段旅程的前兩天，我們都沿著邊境河 Panj River 開車🏞️ 也許是受西方媒體的報導，對於河岸對面的小村莊就是阿富汗感到不可思議👀

這區的阿富汗也有「小帕米爾之稱」，是該國最安全的地區🙂 旅行社可以安排旅者從這邊進去阿富汗，只不過聽說需要從同個地方回到塔吉斯坦就是了😶

我們很湊巧的剛好碰到每禮拜六在帕米爾的主要城市 Khorog 舉辦的阿富汗市集🛍️ 人們會通過小橋，進來吉爾吉斯賣東西。他們都穿著傳統服裝，男人也用圍巾包住頭，很容易認出他們😲

只不過近期恐怖分子塔利班在阿富汗的活動增加，所以市集內一堆拿槍的軍警。一度還檢查我的相機，讓人很不舒服，於是沒待多久就離開了😕

接著我們前往塔吉斯坦最冷的村落 Bulunkul 😬 當天去的時候氣溫-49℃！這裡住了一百多人。看著他們在如此艱難地地方生存，不得不讚嘆人類的韌性以及生活的執著！

非冬季的 Bulunkul 村旁邊有座非常美麗的湖🏞️ 只是冬季的湖都蓋上一層厚厚的雪，我們居然肉眼找不到它在那裡🤣

當晚居住的小鎮 Alichur 溫度是 -50℃ ，夜晚的星星很美🌌 只是真的是太冷了無法久待在外面拍照😂

原本以為晚上會跟尼泊爾 EBC 一樣冷到爆！結果沒想到它們在房間使用碳及牛糞來取暖，效果比想像的好💩 除了半夜上廁所在很遠的戶外令人崩潰，摸到鐵製的門把手會痛以外。我們都有吃飽、睡飽😌

不過這裡海拔將近四千，York 人生第一次有了高山症症狀（以前都有吃藥所以他都沒得過）😅 隔天完全食慾不佳，趕緊吃顆 Diamox 😛

第四天早上的行程是尋找馬可波羅羊🐏 第一次紀錄是馬可波羅在十三世紀來亞洲的時候因而命名👀 這些羊擁有全羊界中最長的羊角！最長紀錄是1.9M、重27公斤！因而有許多人花一隻四萬多美金來打獵這些已經列為保護物種的羊兒🐑

冬季尋找牠們其實沒那麼難，因為山上積雪所以牠們都會下山吃草🌱 只要在雪中跟蹤牠們的腳印就可以找到👣

不過車子也只能開到一個程度，之後雪厚到輪子動不了就只能用走了😩 在海拔四千米、-45℃ 、在深雪中走兩小時真的蠻累人的😂

而且牠們又很敏感！遠到肉眼只能剛剛好看到牠們，再近牠們就會跑掉😲 跟非洲比起來，看得不是很過癮😝 不過至少讓整整五天的雪山行程增加了一點變化😛

冬季的帕米爾公路有幾座有名的村落/地方是無法到達的❄️ 例如Wakhan valley （冬季公路下雪基本封鎖）以及需要健行才能走到的 Jizev valley（這個天氣好也可能）🌄

最後一晚我們住在一座叫 Murgub 的小鎮🏚️ 冬季的帕米爾公路上的民宿時常都沒開。原因是碳太貴，人們只能暖一間房間讓全家共用，無法讓旅客自己睡一間😶

所幸司機的老婆的妹妹原因讓我們住她家，對於能夠住當地人的房子我們感到很興奮😆 一進門就感受到一陣溫馨，而給我們的房間雖然是打地鋪但感覺他們平常是睡這裡，只是今晚讓給我們😊

沒有想到睡覺的時候才發現原來她與唯一的高中兒子睡隔壁廚房！那間廚房說起來不算大，還有桌椅在中間，真的無法想像他們是如何在那擁擠的環境打地鋪😶

煮飯的鑿子可以用來燒火，也能夠溫暖廚房以及我們的房間，真的是很聰明😲

而且這裡冷到沒有自來水，他們都要到井裡打水！想要洗手的話他們會把水加熱讓你淋 😦 由於實在是太麻煩了，最後我們倆都用酒精消毒。回到文明世界才好好洗手...😭

必須說我們照片看起來雖然很快樂，可是其實這五天我過得壓力很大😣 主要是因為這家旅行社願意給我點折扣，如果我推薦他們的話。

我們一開始的司機是老闆，讓人感覺很低氣壓，只有收錢那幾秒才感覺到他的喜悅🙄 每次問他行程就說：「隨便你們！」不然就是叫我去翻 Lonely Planet📚 有幾次我有翻臉，說那本書資訊是偏向夏季又不是冬季！他才好一點。

結果第二天到主要城市 Khorog，他很不幸被警察攔下來👮 這時才發現他車子註冊的文件不見了！沒了文件就代表他無法跨國進去吉爾吉斯，於是隔天交棒給另一位不會說英文的司機，並說如果發生什麼事情都可以打給他 ☎️

離開前他說他會安排好尋找馬可波羅羊的行程，並說我們到那邊還可以重新講價。心裡 OS 是人都已經到那裡了，還講什麼價...🙄 結果當天晚上跟民宿老闆、司機處得很不愉快😠 而打電話給老闆僑他居然拒絕接電話！雖然最後一切圓滿落幕，但已經讓我氣死了😡

由於我們的團費是含所有吃住，當天中午我們午餐居然要自費！身上已經沒剩多少現金的我們當然很不爽，叫司機打給老闆他居然只說我們吃超過 budget 就掛電話並且拒接！

雖然後來兩個小時候我們開到今晚住宿的城鎮，馬上被餵了水餃、幾個小時後又吃了晚餐，才知道應該是溝通不良的關係😑 只是每發生事情都拒絕聽電話我覺得很不 ok！

最後一天又換給另一位司機，讓人感覺好多了！不只不時停下來讓我們拍照，也跟我們有說有笑😌 一切都好時直到過海關，一路上他都跟不同人做交易。雖然不清楚是什麼，但感覺很不正統🤔

讓我真正感覺怪怪的是過了吉爾吉斯海關，海關明明就已經蓋章了並歡迎我們入國🖊️ 司機卻在那之後開到另一棟樓，並讓我們等待超久。出來後說我們需要簽證。

由於我們持紐澳護照，可以百分之百知道不需要簽證。他看我們那麼確定，就說他馬上打給首度問看看。五分鐘後就說沒問題。 我覺得很詭異的是如果需要簽證，一開始就不會給入境章了...🤔 當時我就開始覺得這位司機可能也不是那麼單純...

最後一餐午餐，我們學聰明了，問說可以點什麼（雖然前一兩天老闆讓我們點超多，有點嚇到他😅 其實一人才一菜一湯...）那位司機居然說老闆是壞人，沒有給他錢，所以是他請客。

我覺得很不合理，理論上如果老闆沒有給他錢，他應該會叫我們自付，跟上個司機一樣，而不是請我們... 😕 種種第六感讓我覺得他也不太可信，也沒心情聯絡給我掛電話的老闆確認🙄

不過 Tours de Pamir 這家公司有在 Lonely Planet 上📚而且在還沒談合作之前，他已經是報價最低的公司了！雖然溝通上會氣死！但是實際上的行程，吃、住、去的地方，他並沒有讓我覺得偷工減料... 😶 因此我覺得如何做好心理建設，錢也很緊，那麼是可以用他們😆 只是我好希望錢比較多，就可以用到態度更好的😂

以上就是五天冬季帕米爾公路報告💁 剩下的影片就要上 IG 看即時動態唷 ➡️ www.Instagram.com/travelwithwinny 😁

#帕米爾公路 #吉爾吉斯 #塔吉克斯

Survived the 5 day Pamir Highway where the warmest temp was -30℃ and the coldest -50℃. It is no wonder ppl think we crazy doing this trip in winter 🤣

English Blog➡️ https://www.travelwithwinny.com/5-day-pamir-highway-itinerary-dushanbe-to-osh-in-winter/

The Pamir Highway is the second highest altitude international highway in the world (4655M)⛰️ Traversing through Afghanistan, Uzbekistan, Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan👀

I think the most fascinating part of the trip on day 1 & 2 was looking at Afghanistan across the Panj River😲 That part of Afghanistan is known as little Pamirs and is one of the safest region in the country 👀

We were lucky enough to be in the main town of Pamirs- Khorog on a Saturday where we saw the Afghans crossing the bridge, in order to sell their goods in a local market😶 Although due to increase Taliban activities, there were heaps of army patrols which made the whole visit stressful...🙄

On our 3rd day we visited the coldest town in Tajikistan called Bulunkul, which measured at -49℃ when we were there😲 Surpringly it wasn't so bad cz there were no wind👀

There were around 100 ppl living there and it's just amazing seeing how resilient these ppl are given the harsh climate😬 There was suppose to be a lake near by and is beautiful in summer☀️ However it was covered by snow so we couldn't find it😂

We stayed in this town call Alichur which went down to -50℃ at night 🌌 I must admit they heat up the room quite well using coal & cow dump💩 So it was never as bad as EBC 😹

What kept me awake was the altitude though, heart was pumping very fast & York had to have a Diamox next day cz he was losing his appetite 😅

Next morning we set out to find Marco Polo sheep which first described by Marco Polo😁 These sheep has the longest horns out of all sheep🐏 Measured at 1.9M and weigh 27KG!!! They are currently critically endangered animals and people pay USD$40,000 to hunt them 😐

They were surprisingly easy to find as during winter they come down from the mountains to feed🌱 Though they quite sensitive animals so you can't get too close to them. I could JUST see them with my naked eyes🤓

Hiking in deep snow at 4000M in -45℃ for two hours definitely was type II fun🤣 Though we glad we paid extra USD$60 for it or else Pamir Highway was just endless snowy mountains where most hiking routes are inaccessible in winter (ie. Wakhan valley and Jizev valley) 🗻

On the last night we stayed in our driver's wife's sister's house in a town call Murgab🏚️ Apparently in winter many guest houses just simply doesn't have the capacity to warm up more than room due to how expensive coals are!!! So they just don't receive guests...

Originally we were pretty excited that we get to stay in a local's house only to find that we took over their only heated room and they had to sleep in the kitchen next to us😖

Till this day we still don't know how they slept or just uncomfortably on the floor with a mattress??? Cz it was a proper kitchen with tables and stoves 🍳

The toilet in this house requires us to go out from front door and enter the backyard. The metal bar lock actually hurts your hand when you touch it at that cold temperature 😧 There were no roof, only walls... So genuinely curious what do they do if it rains...🌧️ People certainly needs to control their bladders well😐

Also we didn't have running water to wash our hands from the taps, they had to heat up water from well so we can quickly wash it👐 Hence we didn't use soap for two days 😖 Totally disgusting by day 5...

The drive to Kyrgyzstan was quite nice as our new driver was a lot friendlier and actually speaks English 🚘

Although I grew suspicious of him cz after our passport got stamped at the Kyrgyzstan border, we waited in the car for him for awhile (along the way he was exchanging small packages with ppl which looked dodgy...🤔)

Half an hour later he said we needed visa. We were quite certain we didn't need any especially our passports were already stamped😕 He's like wait a moment he's going to call Bishkek to confirm, 5 mins later he's like we good to go.

As our tour included food and accommodation, at lunch place he said the owner didn't give him money to pay for our lunch🍴 So this meal was coming out from his own pocket.

Having to experience two meals that needed to be paid ourselves due to miscommunication or what so ever on this trip😕 I reckon there's no way he would paid for us if it wasn't included.

Overall I was very stressed with this tour operator and he kept hanging up on us when we encounter disagreements/ problems😠

Yes his price was cheap and in general he did a good job organizing the trip (happy with the food & accommodation provided) but I guess you get what you paid for💁

Company: Tour de Pamir (featured in Lonely Planet too)

#Pamirs #PamirHighway #winter #Tajikistan #Kyrgyzstan

😝吉爾吉斯 （7） - 烏茲別克斯坦簽證到手😝

其實已經是前幾天的事了，話說在song kul 沒有車可以去osh (吉爾吉斯暫時交通未算太方便）只可先回Bishkek再去osh。到了Bishkek就決定先去取烏茲別克斯坦Visa ，聽說在Bishkek取証較方便，不需要久等。

用BNO幾個月前已買（是買😂）了一封LOI (其實現在BNO或特區護照已經不用LOI，不過沒有LOi 不可即日取証）

在Bishkek的烏茲別克Uzbekistan Embassy辦簽証的地址：
Tynystanov street (附近有一間Oxford international school )

由於辦工時間只有星期二至星期五，我星期二上午9:50 左右到達，已經有幾個人在排隊交表，記得帶齊:

1）passport
2） passport copy
3）証件相一張
4）預先在網上填好並print 出來的表格
5）LOI
6）入境時在passport 上的入境印章（這個幸好我早一天發現即時在電訊公司影印）

我交齊所有文件，領事館職員給我一張銀行收據usd$55(不同國籍不同收費），銀行收了21som手續費，要去附近的一間KICB銀行交完款項1:00 前回去可即日取証。我見到其他外國人沒有LOI的要等四天才可取。大叔持中國護照簽證費用usd110!

那天好！大！雨！突然前面的一個大叔用國語説跟我車去bank ，大叔來自新疆，活躍於中亞做生意，有私人司機加靚車，非常好心車埋我去銀行交$再一起回領事館，結果十點幾我就簽証到手。之後大叔再送了我和朋友去中餐廳，出路遇貴人大概如此😝中餐超好味，最想念炒菠菜的味道😋

這個旅程的唯一要做簽証的已經成功，其他都免簽證或e visa，老實說用BNO去中亞及高加索感覺較方便（暫時）

不過簽證隨時會有變化，出發之前自己check 清楚先。
～～待續～～

去旅行之前電話一定要裝@hotelscombined 太方便 download ➡️http://bit.ly/2KuIRdn

#hotelscombined
#visa
#centralasia
#kyrgyzstan
#uzbekistan

🎒🛩🎒🛩🎒🛩🎒🛩🎒🛩🎒🛩🎒🛩🎒🛩🎒

Indiapink已經出發中亞五國+高加索大旅行，不斷更新旅途中的大小事，別忘了把Facebook專頁為"搶先看"（See first）以及"開啟通知"（Notification On）

📣📣📣記得Add 我 Ig 👋🏻🙇🏻‍♀️

較詳盡的更新在Facebook: indiapinkpink
濕濕碎碎的更新在Instagram：indiapink
我其實有Blog：http://www.indiapink.com/blog/

[中國特色的中亞城市：喀什]
Kashgar: a central Asian city in China

或者也可以說是中亞特色的中國城市啦。
Or a Chinese city in central Asia.

5月21日，踏入了本趟最艱難的一段旅程：從吉爾吉斯的帕米爾高原通過中吉邊界入境中國，高海拔、沒有大眾運輸、不知道簽證與護照是否能順利通過，那天還意外的加上下大雪；還好結果這天意外的順利，交通問題得以克服、護照和簽證也沒碰到刁難，結果最讓人不耐的反而是入境時的速度——只能說，以一個不正常的身份（台胞）配上一個不正常的證件（中國旅行證）入境這個國家，真的需要很大的耐心啊。用了接近12個小時，終於在晚上九點進入中國最西城市喀什。

Started the hardest part of my journey on May 21: entering China from Kyrgyzstan via Pamir Highway: high altitude, lack of public transit, possibility of rejection, plus heavy snow on that particular date. Fortunately, it was overall smooth - had no problem finding rides, was admitted without further questions. However, the passport check did take a very long time. As a Taiwanese (which is considered both Chinese citizen and foreigner here), entering this country sometimes requires extra patience :)

老實說我原本對於喀什沒有很大的期待，純粹是抱持這路過的心情，畢竟才剛剛去過烏茲別克和吉爾吉斯，這兩個國家的文化都和維吾爾人有點關連（對，很多人都不知道其實烏茲別克人和維吾爾人其實是同一個族群，至今也操著相同的語言，因為對泛突厥主義恨之入骨的中國政府不會讓你發現這件事），但又少了中國色彩而更加純粹；相形之下，走著標準中國特色發展的喀什就沒那麼有特色，喀什的清真寺與陵墓那兩國比起來簡直像路邊民宅一樣。

結果卻讓我大感意外：我發覺這個城市雖然特色不如前兩國那樣鮮明，卻有一些讓我覺得驚喜的發現。簡單記下這一兩天所見：

I didn't expect much from this city: as someone who just came from central Asia, the Islam architecture in Uzbekistan is way more impressive than here, and the Turkic/Islamic culture in Uzbekistan and Kyrgyzstan is more authentic than Kashgar. But to my surprise, I actually liked Kashgar more than I thought. Indeed it is not as impressive, but still found things that amazed me:

*既像中國又像中亞*
Where China and central Asia meet

就如同大多數的中國城市，第一印象往往是超大的建築和馬路，現代化的高樓大廈和北京上海的看起來沒什麼差別；然而，離開市中心不遠，我仍然看到在泥塑的民居旁邊，維吾爾人在泥濘的路上趕著羊，就和我在吉爾吉斯每天看到的景象一樣。而旁邊不到10公尺處就是30米寬的新闢道路，暗示著我看到的這一切可能幾個月之後就會完全改變。

As a typical Chinese city, first impression is often the extra-large-size streets and buildings. The new high-rise buildings here are no different from those in Beijing; but few kilometers from downtown, you can still see more common central Asian scene. Next to mud-covered houses, locals still push their flocks around on muddy roads, even though it was just 10 meters away from a newly built modern street. I think the existence of the street implies that this scene can probably change in a few months.

*維吾爾民居*
Uyghur residence

和青旅認識的朋友一起去逛老城區時，有幸被當地人邀請到家裡短暫作客，得以窺見他們的典型家屋：入口處通常會有個前庭，前庭裡有著一個涼台上面擺著刺繡的軟墊與茶几，這是他們在炎熱天氣裡吃飯喝茶閒聊的地方；前庭裡還會有個直上二樓陽台的階梯，偶有植物枝葉從陽台垂下，成為房屋裝飾的一部分。

主人送上了溫水與形似饅頭的麵食，我們在涼台上透過會講中文的孫女和老爺爺老奶奶溝通。他們已經80（也就是出生在這裡還是中華民國新疆省疏勒縣的那個年代），跟他們說我是台灣人，他們完全不知道那是什麼地方，只是繼續說著這是我太太、這是我孫女、這是我曾孫……。

While exploring the old town with a friend I met at youth hostel, we were invited into a local residence. A typical residence has a front yard, where a bed is set with a table and cushions. This is where the family would eat and hang out while temperature is high. Also a stair leads to a second floor balcony, where some plants would come down into the yard.

We were served with warm water and some homemade bread, and tried to communicate with an old couple through their granddaughter who can speak Mandarin. They are already 80, and know nothing about Taiwan. The gentleman simply repeats that this is my wife, this is my granddaughter, this is my great grandson, etc.

*內地的定義*
The "inner land"

偶然遇到一位家在新疆的漢人小哥，和他提起我旅行的經驗，還有我旅行的花費。他說，他去年去「內地」轉了幾天結果也花了幾萬元。我心想，內地？啊內地不就是你們大陸嗎？我這才想到，其實對不同人來說，「內地」指的是不一樣的概念——對他們來說，東部那些以漢文化為主的核心城市才是「內地」，自己住的地方是邊疆。

這樣說來，「台灣的內地是南投」這個講法好像也不太對，正確來說，東部人會覺得內地是西部、南部人會覺得內地是北部、新北市人會覺得內地是台北市吧。

Met a local Chinese who said he traveled to the "inner land" from Xinjiang (the province where Kashgar is located). This surprised me, as I always thought that for a mainland Chinese, inner land simply means the entire mainland (in opposition to Taiwan, Hong Kong and Macau). His words changed my understanding of the word "inner land". I guess the true meaning of "inner land" is: where the mainstream culture and primary cities are located.

*維吾爾人的處境*

喀什幾乎所有的商店招牌都是維吾爾文字與漢字並列，公車報站名時都會報中文和維吾爾語（對，沒有英文），古城裡玩樂的孩童嘴裡說的也都是維吾爾語，乍看之下這個文化似乎欣欣向榮，但事實上大家都覺得這一切很快就會改變。

在這裡工作的漢人告訴我，他發現維吾爾人言談之間會流露出一種「漢文化比較好」的偏見，學校裡已經開始不教維吾爾語，許多政策明顯有利於漢人，城市裡可以見到的一切標語也都是「文明社會」、「中國特色社會主義」、「十九大精神」等。在這種漢文化或者國家團結至上的氛圍裡，維吾爾人的語言和文化正快速的弱化著。

Uyghur language can be seen and heard everywhere, and this may make you feel that this minority culture in China is thriving. In fact, it is not, and many think that this situation would change very soon.

Han Chinese locals here told me that they can feel even the Uyghurs show disdain toward their own culture unconscientiously in their conversation. Uyghur language is no longer taught at schools, and many policies are friendlier to Han Chinese. "Han is a better culture" can be observed in many ways, and the Uyghur culture and language are being weakened rapidly.