蘭州、銀川、包頭與呼和浩特
Lanzhou, Yinchuan, Baotou and Hohhot
5月30日、31日與6月1日從河西走廊轉為沿著黃河北上進入內蒙古，採取蜻蜓點水的方式3天內拜訪了5個城市（其中4個還都是省會），每天的生活大概就是白天逛城市、晚上睡臥鋪火車、睡到下一個城市再繼續逛。簡單紀錄一下這幾個城市（西寧除外，上篇已經寫過了）。
My life from May 30 to June 1 --
Daytime: touring cities, until boarding a night train
Night: sleeping on trains, until arriving at next city in the morning
Visited 5 cities: Xining (addressed in my last post), Lanzhou, Yinchuan, Baotou and Hohhot.
蘭州 Lanzhou, literally "the orchid country"
蘭州被黃河所貫穿，而市中心最重要的地標是一座跨越黃河的鐵橋，名曰「中山橋」。不要以為這座中山橋跟台北那座八竿子打不著——蘭州這座長度大概200公尺、是指定保存的古蹟、橋的另一端連接著一座頗有規模的宮殿式建築，從這些角度來說不是和台北的那座一模一樣嗎？ XD
橋旁遊人如織，許多人和我一樣在黃河邊徒步看夕陽，附近的街道則是熱鬧的商圈與夜市，走在這個城市裡覺得生氣蓬勃——相較於前幾天所見無處不是警察、無處不是安檢、夜市還規定時間統一收攤的新疆，我感覺自己重新回到了有溫度的城市。
Yellow River, goes through the city, and the most popular attraction is a bridge crossing the river: Zhongshan Bridge, which has a counterpart in my home city Taipei.
The city has vibrant night markets and business districts. Compared to Xinjiang, where police and security check were installed everywhere and vendors had to shut down at a given time, this city seemed more amicable to me.
銀川 Yinchuan, literally "the silver river"
以前課本上說這裡是「塞上江南」，今天這個城市仍然如此行銷自己，不過意義有點不太一樣。過去是因為相較於一山之隔的內蒙古，這裡相對濕潤且容易灌溉；現在這個這個城市則是很努力的讓自己在擴張的同時仍然像江南那樣綠意盎然、湖塘密佈。銀川的新開發區裡保留了面積相當大的綠地，而且刻意設計了大規模的水道系統，某些建案甚至刻意用面對綠地或水塘來行銷。
市中心也有一個晚上會點起七彩霓虹燈的清真寺，清真寺的隔壁則是條「牛街」，是當地人吃肉喝酒、縱情狂歡的地方，店家都直接把桌椅甚至食材搬到街上拼場面，還刻意在招牌上加上「 KTV」的字樣，告訴你他們家不但可以吃肉喝酒還可以K歌。這個場景和清真寺的對比讓我覺得很有趣。
Known as "paradise in the wilderness", this city maintains large green lands and water bodies while developing rapidly. Many newly built apartment complexes marketed themselves with their proximity to parks and water channels.
Right next to its great mosque, there is a "bull street", where locals would go to eat meat, drink and sing kareoke. This is an interesting contrast to its neighboring mosque.
包頭 Baotou
以前課本上說這裡是「草原鋼城」，顧名思義是草原裡的鋼城，不過更神奇的是這個城市裡現在還有片「鋼城草原」，也就是一片在市中心刻意保留草原風貌的綠地，上面還刻意搭了蒙古包和敖包，試圖在典型的中國城市風貌裡凸顯一些當地特色。這裡的正式名稱是「賽汗塔拉生態園」到訪這天是6月1日，這天似乎在中國已經成為半個特殊節日，綠地上擠滿了小學生和他們的家長與老師，似乎是個校外教學加團康活動日。
Known as "steel city on the pasture". Now pasture is very rare in this modern metropolis, but a large patch of original grassland was preserved and open to the public as a park. Yurts and Mongolian stone monuments were added to the park.
呼和浩特 Hohhot
以前國民政府時代叫做「歸綏」，和迪化（烏魯木齊）、庫倫（烏蘭巴托）一樣，是在中國已經不存在但在台灣仍透過街道名被保留下來的地名。這裡是省會，建築也流露出一種行政中心特有的霸氣，而其中最讓我印象深刻的是內蒙古博物院，一個進入中國至今讓我覺得最不虛此行的景點。這個博物館院可說是內外兼具——建築外表本身很有看頭（印象中好像有上過建築雜誌），裡面從歷史、生態、文化等角度多方面介紹內蒙古，其中有幾個特別有趣的館：
- 介紹遼、金兩個非漢人朝代的歷史，輔以大量出土文物
- 內蒙古解放史——介紹內蒙古如何在民國時期被中國共產黨逐漸納入成其勢力範圍，並且率先集結反國民政府力量成立人民共和國政府
- 從內蒙古的角度介紹中國太空科技使史（因為中國的太空船有一大半都在內蒙古發射，包括第一次載人飛行）
當然，最重要的是：這個館是免費的，比起一路走來那些動輒人民幣100、200的景區要有良心多了XD
The capital city of Inner Mongolia. There is one spot I highly recommended: Museum of Inner Mongolia. It's impressive both on its exterior and interior -- the outside was outstanding (and had been on an architecture magazine, if I remember it correctly), and the inside was informative but not boring. It introduces Inner Mongolia in aspects you have not thought of, such as non-Han-Chinese dynasties, aerospace technology, development of the communist party, etc.
And most importantly, it's free! :)
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