Galette des rois 系列之三 - Galette de l'Égalité（#平等之餅）& galette de la Liberté（#自由之餅）(English below)
前面兩篇關於國王派（國王餅）的文章，第一篇回顧了國王派的歷史、起源與故事，第二篇則和大家分享了我最近品嚐的五個國王派。其實關於國王派的小故事還很多，今天特別想要和大家分享其中一個台灣讀者可能特別有感的故事。
大家現在已經清楚，法國在主顯節當天分享國王派的習俗，知道拿到小瓷偶（fève）的人可以戴上紙做的皇冠，#當一天的國王。但是，自從 1789 年的法國大革命（la Révolution française）之後，雖然仍有短暫的拿破崙稱帝（法蘭西第一帝國）、路易拿破崙復辟（法蘭西第二帝國）與被納粹德國佔領的時期，但基本上皇帝與貴族階級的合法性與控制優勢皆江河日下，逐漸走入歷史的灰燼。在法國大革命之後，又被稱為「jour des Rois」（中文翻譯為「三王來朝日」）、且必須選出國王的主顯節，自然顯得很不合時宜，因此在大革命期間與之後一段時間內，國王派被改稱為「galette de l'Égalité」（平等之餅）或「galette de la Liberté」（自由之餅），原本餅中間藏的小瓷偶是嬰兒耶穌造型，也被改為當時共和黨人中流行的紅色錐形帽「bonnet phrygien」（註）。
雖說傳統習俗最後戰勝了政治力量，法國人一直到現在都在主顯節時切分國王派、並決定當日的國王，但是，＃每年在法國總統府切分的國王派卻是沒有小瓷偶的，因為 ＃現在的法蘭西共和國內再也沒有國王跟皇室了，＃人們選出的是公僕。
照片中是巴黎 Pierre Hermé Paris 的甜點櫥窗，今年 Pierre Hermé 推出了三款主顯節商品，其中有兩個國王派：一個以大師的招牌風味組合「Mogador」為主題，包含百香果風味的杏仁奶餡、炙烤鳳梨與水果風味的甘納許；另一個則是經典的杏仁為。最後則是榛果帕林內（praliné noisette）的布里歐許國王蛋糕。三款中都藏有與珠寶品牌 Messika 合作設計的小瓷偶，還有抽出 12 組的限量手鍊送給幸運的消費者。
明天就是台灣總統大選，我想很多人跟我一樣都非常焦慮。我因為工作關係實在無法回台灣投票（到現在依然不明白為何不能在駐外代表處投票），但希望能夠投票的大家，都能珍惜自己手中的選票、珍惜能夠自由表達自己的意見，且能夠無所畏懼地享受在民主國家中才有的、每一票平等的價值。
衷心地希望將來台灣人仍然能夠擁有「只需要煩惱國王派要選哪一家」、而不是「只能煩惱國王派要選哪一家」的自由。
📌 註解：「bonnet phrygien」：佛里幾亞帽。法國大革命時期，人們相信古羅馬的獲釋奴隸會佩戴佛里幾亞帽，這種帽子因此成為自由的象徵，此含義一直沿用到今天。佛里幾亞帽又被稱為自由之帽，出現在許多拉美國家的國徽中。（wikipedia）
🔖 延伸閱讀：
一篇搞懂國王派的來源與習俗：https://tinyurl.com/yewrathc
2020 我為大家品嚐了哪些國王派：https://tinyurl.com/v6kav57
2018 年國王派精選：https://tinyurl.com/taeqou9
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As we know, the French is sharing a galette des rois (King cake / Epiphany cake) among family and friends on Epiphany (6th of January) each year, and the one who’s got the slice with a hidden fève, originally a dried bean but now usually a small porcelaine token, gets a paper crown and name his queen or her king. During a short period after the French Revolution, since the monarchy was overthrown and the people took control of the government, the galette des rois and the custom of making one king/queen of the day became inappropriate, thus the galette was renamed as “galette d’Égalité” (cake of equality) or “galette de la Liberté” (cake of freedom), and the fève, often a baby Jesus figuring back then, was replaced as a bonnet phrygien, the symbol of French republicans during the Revolution.
Although at the end traditions triumphed the political arrangements that the French still celebrate the “jour des Rois” (“the day of Three Kings”, Epiphany) and let chance decide the king/queen that day, the galette shared at Élysée Palace (the French presidential palace) does not hide a fève inside. Because in the present day France, nobody will be the King and people get to choose and vote for their president.
Tomorrow is an extremely important day for Taiwanese people not only because it’s the day when we vote for our own president, but also because it’s when the people get to express their opinions freely, which is unique in Chinese-speaking world. We have no king, are not controlled by a authoritarian government, and people have equal right to vote (Time magazine calls Taiwan as “the last free place in the Chinese-speaking world). Unfortunately I won’t be able to get back to Taiwan to vote this time, but I hope wholeheartedly that we, the Taiwanese will be able to preserve its democracy and the values that we all cherish without fears.
Please do go vote tomorrow! Vote, so that you and your children could still enjoy freedom in the future. Vote, so that you only need to worry which galette you should take but are not left with the sole option to consume.
📌 The photo features the Epiphany collection of Pierre Hermé Paris this year. Two galettes and one brioche des rois are listed. Besides a classic "Infiniment Amandes" ("infinite almonds") option, in the galette "Mogador", the almond cream is flavored with the passion fruit. Roasted pineapple and milk chocolate ganache further enriched its texture and flavorful acidity. The brioche has transformed the traditional version into one with rich hazelnut praliné, smooth, crunchy and lightly caramelized at the same time. Collaborating with Pierre Hermé, Messika jewelry has designed the elegant fève and is now holding a lucky draw for 12 bracelets to give away to the lucky ones.
🔖 More about Epiphany and galette des rois:
The origin and traditions of sharing a galette des rois on Epiphany: https://tinyurl.com/yewrathc
Galettes that I tasted for you in 2020: https://tinyurl.com/v6kav57
The 2018 selection of galettes des rois: https://tinyurl.com/taeqou9
#yingspastryguide #galettedesrois2020 #galettedesrois #paris
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